Breaking up with synthetic activewear? Here's what to wear instead
From Fair Trade Goa to eBay deep cuts: what the polyester lobby doesn’t want you to know...
A few weeks ago, published a piece on the appeal of cotton activewear, the type that shows sweat, maybe even VPL; the full glory of one’s workout. At my preferred gym location, dressed in some variation of a cotton tank top and shorts, sometimes I do feel like that oft-cited Miranda scene — the one where she’s approached by her gym crush, fresh off the treadmill, drenched in sweat (highly visible, thanks to her gray cotton t-shirt).
In one sense, this growing preference for cotton hints at a quiet shift away from our culture of hyper-optimization, a notion that HG alumna Carlisle has also cosigned. In a land of slippery BBL jackets and moisture-wicking matching sets, sweat-soaked cotton might just be our proof of life.
Still, I choose cotton mainly for health-related reasons. Most activewear today is made from synthetics like polyester or nylon, which shed microplastics directly into our bodies (especially during exercise, when heat and moisture speed up absorption). If you’re reading this, you probably already know the tragic effects of microplastic exposure (especially when it comes to fertility); if not, start here.
Since waking up to the lies of Big Activewear a few years ago, along with realizing how much better I feel in natural fibers (fabric energetics are real), I’ve slowly been transitioning to a mostly natural fiber closet. Because gym clothes are the pieces I wear, and therefore wash, most often, sourcing the right ones has been especially top of mind.
So whether you’re just beginning your journey with cotton activewear, or simply in search of some more pieces to add to your collection, here are some of my favorites…
Note: I will be updating this article as I try more brands (thank you for all of your suggestions!). And some of these links are affiliate, but all opinions are my own.
Yoga Pants + Leggings
It’s nearly impossible to find 100% cotton leggings or yoga pants because both silhouettes require some stretch to function properly. If you’re set on 100% cotton, I’d recommend a different cut — think: cotton gauze yoga pants, karate-style pants (like these from Brooke Callahan), or Thai fisherman pants à la Paul Chek, who argues that synthetic fabrics also interfere with clairvoyance.
That said, the poly-cotton ratio in the picks I’ve found beats your average pair of leggings. Most cotton options offer some variation of 90% cotton, 10% elastane/spandex, the latter of which gives the stretch that you need. (Elastane and spandex are both synthetic, but 10% poly is better than 100%…) Organic cotton adds a nice touch, though it usually comes with a steep markup; prioritize accordingly.
🌴 Hard Tail Forever
Best for: Flattering, made in USA, Topanga-esque basics.
Avoid if: You want to avoid Y2K style allegations.
Compared to brands like Pact, Mate or Organic Basics, which specifically market to a cotton-conscious clientele, Hard Tail is a bit more low-key. Many of my friends have a nostalgic affinity (or repulsion) for the brand, but as someone who didn’t grow up on a coast, mine is more neutral: they just make good-quality pieces.
Case in point: the Contour Rolldown Ankle Legging (90% cotton, 10% lycra), which escape one of the most common issues of cotton leggings — a sagging or overly tight waistband — with ease. I’ve had my pair since late December, washing them 1-2x/week (that’s 25+ washes), and they still haven’t pilled and have only faded slightly, to a slightly sueded black. And the adjustable waistband means that they can suit a variety of different heights and ‘rise preferences’ (I always go for low).
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ / 5
Additional shoutout to their Rolldown Double Layer Voile Pant (sold out for now), Deep Double V Tank (on sale), and old ads.
🪷 Guru Shop
Best for: Fair Trade + organic cotton without the gimmick; Europeans; yoga moms (actual or aspiring).
Avoid if: Sensitive to psytrance silhouettes.
Niche recommendation here, and I’m not sure if they ship to the US, but GuruShop is hands down my favorite Fair Trade organic cotton source — especially if you’re open to a more Goa/psytrance-inspired silhouette. I wore their Yoga Pants with Mini Skirt (95% organic cotton) to many a German yoga class last summer, and found the vibe to be immaculate. The legs are long enough to cover your heels (if you so desire) and the skirt adds dimension. Unsurprisingly, they also double as maternity wear: “It actually fits very well over my overly large pregnant belly and it will also fit well after the birth,” says one reviewer. I also like how if you wear them with the right top it looks like a dress/pants situation.
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ / 5
🇺🇸 Los Angeles Apparel
Best for: Yoga pants + other basics (all made in LA).
Avoid if: N/A
If you’re reading this, you probably already know the beauty of Los Angeles Apparel (American Apparel reincarnate)’s cotton basics. If not, let me put you onto the Garment Dye Yoga Shorts, Garment Dye Yoga Leggings, Garment Dye Basic Bralette (all 95% cotton)… The quality is great and, so long as you size up, you really can’t go wrong.
Criss Moon, whose taste I trust (and who also contributed to last year’s gift guide), seconds the yoga pants — “for lifting and light cardio” — along with the Spaghetti Bra (95% cotton). Her preferred colors? Black, gray, and chocolate brown; “No white.”
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ / 5
Worth mentioning…
Organic Basics: their Everyday Stirrup Leggings (no longer sold, probably for good reason) are fine, but on the thinner side and feel more like a casual legging versus a piece intended for working out in. I do like their Crew Socks (70% organic cotton). *Subtracting an aura point because the brand is called ‘Organic Basics’ but their official activewear line is mostly nylon.
Urban Outfitters: I haven’t tried much from UO recently, but Carlisle has had luck with their 100% cotton tops/shorts. Currently eyeing: Wide Leg Yoga Short, Double Layer Bra, Bec Capri Pant (all 95% cotton). I’ll update this if I try anything.
Pact: As of this year, they’re no longer making activewear :( BUT, I do have their Organic Cotton Capri Leggings (available on eBay), and they’ve lasted for a few years without much pilling or degradation. Just note that the material is quite stiff (a friend calls it ‘cardboard-y’). Criss also likes their Cropped Bootcut Leggings in chocolate brown and black (also on eBay). RIP!
Tops, Sports Bras + Hoodies
This category is much easier to find 100% cotton options in, so there aren’t necessarily as many brands or retailers that stand out. (I’ve also been known to wear a bikini top to the gym, so sports bras aren’t always top of mind.)
👯♀️ Brandy Melville
Best for: No-brainer basics.
Avoid if: You’re above a size ~6; you don’t like shopping while surrounded by teenagers.
No surprise here — if you’re between sizes ~00-6, Brandy has some great cotton pieces that are also quite affordable. I love their sports bras (92% cotton; referred to as tank tops online), which look deceivingly small in-store but are actually quite supportive and stretchy. The actual tank tops (96% cotton) and tees are also great, and have held up surprisingly well over the past few months (but, in true Brandy style, will probably need replacing soon). Not much else to say here, except to shop in person rather than online, if you can; the quality can vary piece-to-piece.
★ ★ ★ ★ / 5
👚 ATM Anthony Thomas Melillo
Best for: Hoodies + beach-type layers that you can wear outside of the gym.
Avoid if: You want something more exciting?
ATM is one of those ‘quiet luxury’ brands like Enza Costa or Brunello Cucinelli with actually nice basics. I recently upgraded my 100% cotton Muji hoodie (we had a good run) for this 100% cotton terrycloth hoodie (similar styles often available on TheRealReal), and haven’t looked back since. You probably can’t go wrong with his t-shirts, either. Easy.
★ ★ ★ ★ ★ / 5
Worth mentioning…
Pact (again): Their Everyday Camisoles (95% organic cotton) are nice, hold up well, and shouldn’t be discontinued anytime soon. I have two in black and one in white. Also sold at Whole Foods.
Rebecca Beeson: Another recommendation from Criss, who likes the cotton tees and tank tops (“vintage only”). Used to be sold at Anthropologie?
Hanes: The Cotton String Bralettes (95% cotton) are inexpensive and have held up pretty well so far (6 months?). Best for smaller chests. Also, you can’t go wrong with a Ribbed White Tank (or maybe you can…I just learned that even the kids’ styles have polyester?).
Free City and Wildfox: Two more Hard Tail-esque brands that also happen to have a lot of cotton offerings. I’m fiending for a pair of Free City sweatpants. Here’s Tess wearing a Wildfox deep cut, also on eBay. (Apparently the letters glow in the dark):
What are you wearing to the gym?
I switched to merino activewear from synthetic a few years ago and I haven’t looked back (yes, even in summer!)
It’s superior in every single way. Like, polyester doesn’t even come close.
I’ve been having some thryroid issues for the last year, and I’ve been trying to reduce my exposure to hormone disrupting stuff ever since. This article couldn’t have come at a better time! I have been slowly swapping all my fancy little sets for plain old cotton. But I have found I have to look hard to find 100% cotton anything these days!